Family traditions in Cuba

Cuban Traditions: Noche Buena

In America, Christmas Day is usually the most important day of the year, at least for Christian families that celebrate the holiday. That is the day when all of the stores are closed, and when the gifts in shining wrapping paper under the tree are opened early in the morning, to the delight of squealing children and sleepy parents. But in Cuban tradition, no one would think of leaving their shopping until the night before Christmas. The night before is just as important. December 24th is the eve of Noche Buena.

On Noche Buena, the entire Cuban extended family traditionally gathers together for a great, celebratory feast. Preparations for Noche Buena are not a last-minute affair. I remember my mother, aunts, and grandmothers shopping, planning and cooking traditional Cuban desserts like sugared fruits and bunuelos, fried bits of dough rolled in sugar (not unlike American fair funnel cakes, only better) weeks in advance.

The most striking dish served on the holiday is not a turkey or ham, but a great roasted pig. Pork features very prominently in Cuban cuisine. The pig is served with traditional black beans, rice, and yuca con mojo. The pig is traditionally butchered on December 23 and soaked overnight in mojo, a marinade of garlic, onions, orange, and other spices. Every Cuban family has a secret ingredient or two for its mojo, of course, and if you wander the streets of Little Havana in Florida, or another area with many Cuban families on December 24th, you will smell the aromas of different kinds of marinated mojo everywhere as everyone is roasting their pigs.

The party usually starts at nightfall. Before the clock strikes midnight, the family will go to mass, or "misa de gallo," the mass of the rooster. It is called this because it takes place so late at night. After mass, quite often the party continues. The joy of celebrating the birth of Christ and the noisy delights of a feast are fused into one glorious evening. There is no cautioning the children to get to bed early to wait for Santa Claus, as gifts are not traditionally exchanged upon this day in Cuban culture. Although some Cubans have adopted the concept of Santa Claus after living in America, traditionally Noche Buena and Christmas Day is more of an adult festival. The parties on Noche Buena, much like New Year's Day, last long into the morning hours, and children sometimes fall asleep on their feet! Everyone rises late and has a casual meal of the leftovers.

Usually, Cuban children receive their gifts on the 6th of January, the day of Los Reyes Magos, the Three Kings or Three Wise Men. This is a day of processions and gift-giving, and people dressed up as the Wise Men throw candy to the crowds of children watching in the streets. (if you really think about it, it makes more sense to exchange gifts on the day when the Three Wise Men presented their gifts to the infant Jesus, rather than before that day.) of course, in Cuba itself, such Christian celebration is officially banned in the atheist, Marxist state, but this only makes Cubans living elsewhere, such as in the United States, all the more proud and grateful for their national Christmas traditions.