Fashion concepts and applications

Fashion

Early Middle Ages

The fashion of designer Marc Jacobs, which appeared on the runway in the fall of 2008, could have been inspired by the fashion of European Early Middle Ages. The runway pieces, shown above[footnoteRef:1], show five traits found in fashion of the early middle ages: simplicity, loose, color, layering, and head covering. [1: Style.com, (Accessed Nov 28, 2010)]

Women's clothing of the early middle ages was loose and somewhat shapeless. In the early middle ages, women wore ankle length gowns or tunics in layers. The under garment, called a chainse or cainsil, was a long white tunic usually pleated, made of fine linen that had long sleeves that fit at the wrists. The outer layer, sometimes hiked up to knee length adding texture and additional fullness, was shorter. For the outermost layer, women wore semi-circular cloaks which were long in the back and shorter in the front.

The first photo demonstrates the layered look of the early middle ages, sporting a long hooded lace cape over loose netted leggings. The simplicity of the garments as well as the chosen colors of black and white are period appropriate. The hair style and headdress resemble the shape and mood of early middle ages headdress, or velo.

The second photo[footnoteRef:2] is a wonderful example of layering typical of the early Middle Ages. The flowing cape, or mantello, of muted green, has its own multi-level look and compliments that natural course brown sweater, and off-white rolled turtle neck. The pants, though not worn by women in the Middle Ages, resemble a gathered gown worn by women or loose pants worn by men. The coordination broad band woolen-like hat with flowing hair, resembles period banded headdress styles. The high black boots perfects the medieval image. [2: Ibid]

Late Middle Ages

Although many early middle-age clothing traits remained for hundreds of years, (including natural hand woven and hand dyed materials, and layered flowing lines) by the time of the 14th century, clothing began to be take more shape. Figure-fitting clothing was accomplished through various methods, such as lacing the back of the garment from neck to waist. Working class men and women still wore clothing that was rather plain and simple, while the wealthy wore ornate embellishments such as jeweled belts, square enamel buttons, high collars, and tassels. Simple woven patterns began to appear in fabric. In addition, "jagged" or "dagged" clothing, as it was called, became popular. The term "jagged" refers to a method of cutting away the fabric to form scalloped or pointed edges.

The Marc Jacobs outfit, picture above, shows decorative embellishments that echo high fashion of the Middle Ages. The jacket trim and gold buttons on the collar are reminiscent of the simple accents that ladies in high position wore. Embroidered accents were often done with silver or gold silk or wool thread. There are definitive layers in this ensemble: the scarf tucked around the neck of the cape garment, over the simple black skirt, tights, and boots. The striking black sunglasses contrast the chosen beige color and offset the full head-cover and the tall, folded, purple, suede, boots add a touch of appropriate three-musketeer-ism.

Renaissance

In Eastern Europe, early renaissance fashion for women was similar to medieval dress. The concepts of simplicity and layering continued although throughout the period, innovation in fashion began to take shape as fabrics, dyes, and costume making methods advanced.

Common attire for an early Renaissance woman would include of a kirtle, chemise, and gown. The kirtle was a modest full skirt worn with a linen top called a chemise. The gown was worn over the kirtle. It had a full skirt split in the front, to show the kirtle, and had a basque style waistline. A typical gown was made from woven wool or linen. A Renaissance garment for the elite was more elaborate, tailored, and complex including padded shoulders, embroidered fabrics, and jeweled decorations.

Various fashion features from the renaissance period continue to be seen in fashion today. In the Michael C. creation (Spring 2011 collection) shown above in the first photo, renaissance qualities can be found in the full length, split skirt and bodice. In the second picture, Model Natasha Poly displays a tailored suit with 17th century Renaissance features such as the elaborate sleeves and basque waistline. The third illustration[footnoteRef:3] shows a Dolce & Gabbana design which captures the Italian Renaissance. It features decadent fabric, high padded shoulders, high neck, and a split gown and kirtle effect. [3: http://www.theinsider.com/news, (accessed Nov 28, 2005).]