Marc Jacobs's 2008 runway collection inspired by Early and Late Middle Ages fashion

Fashion

Early Middle Ages

The fashion of designer Marc Jacobs, which appeared on the runway in the fall of 2008, could have been inspired by the fashion of European Early Middle Ages. The runway pieces, shown above[footnoteRef:1], show five traits found in fashion of the early middle ages: simplicity, loose, color, layering, and head covering. [1: Style.com, (Accessed Nov 28, 2010)]

Women's clothing of the early middle ages was loose and somewhat shapeless. In the early middle ages, women wore ankle length gowns or tunics in layers. The under garment, called a chainse or cainsil, was a long white tunic usually pleated, made of fine linen that had long sleeves that fit at the wrists. The outer layer, sometimes hiked up to knee length adding texture and additional fullness, was shorter. For the outermost layer, women wore semi-circular cloaks which were long in the back and shorter in the front.

The first photo demonstrates the layered look of the early middle ages, sporting a long hooded lace cape over loose netted leggings. The simplicity of the garments as well as the chosen colors of black and white are period appropriate. The hair style and headdress resemble the shape and mood of early middle ages headdress, or velo.

The second photo[footnoteRef:2] is a wonderful example of layering typical of the early Middle Ages. The flowing cape, or mantello, of muted green, has its own multi-level look and compliments that natural course brown sweater, and off-white rolled turtle neck. The pants, though not worn by women in the Middle Ages, resemble a gathered gown worn by women or loose pants worn by men. The coordination broad band woolen-like hat with flowing hair, resembles period banded headdress styles. The high black boots perfects the medieval image. [2: Ibid]

Late Middle Ages

Although many early middle-age clothing traits remained for hundreds of years, (including natural hand woven and hand dyed materials, and layered flowing lines) by the time of the 14th century, clothing began to be take more shape. Figure-fitting clothing was accomplished through various methods, such as lacing the back of the garment from neck to waist. Working class men and women still wore clothing that was rather plain and simple, while the wealthy wore ornate embellishments such as jeweled belts, square enamel buttons, high collars, and tassels. Simple woven patterns began to appear in fabric. In addition, "jagged" or "dagged" clothing, as it was called, became popular. The term "jagged" refers to a method of cutting away the fabric to form scalloped or pointed edges.

The Marc Jacobs outfit, picture above, shows decorative embellishments that echo high fashion of the Middle Ages. The jacket trim and gold buttons on the collar are reminiscent of the simple accents that ladies in high position wore. Embroidered accents were often done with silver or gold silk or wool thread. There are definitive layers in this ensemble: the scarf tucked around the neck of the cape garment, over the simple black skirt, tights, and boots. The striking black sunglasses contrast the chosen beige color and offset the full head-cover and the tall, folded, purple, suede, boots add a touch of appropriate three-musketeer-ism.

Baroque Periods

The Baroque era brought a distinctive shift in fashion. Fabrics with their natural qualities were replaced by a stiff starched look. Trim consisted primarily of buttons and lace. The neckline for women's fashion became wide and square, and waistlines were raised. Sleeves were draped softly below the elbow, revealing the wearer's lower arm.

In the first photo above Dolce and Gabbana (Fall 2009) embraced baroque sense of extravagance, the deep broad neckline, and full bodied sleeves. A baroque style is also displayed in the richness of the chosen fabric. In the second photo, designers Roksanda Ilincic (Fall 2009) also captures baroque flare through choice of sophisticated fabric and dramatic formed sleeves. In addition, the designer broadness the model's silhouette, typical of the baroque style, by gathering the fabric around the hips to match the breath of the shoulders.

Fashion draws on the past to incorporate loved fashion elements into modern creations. In this way fashion becomes timeless.