Fashion theories of adaptation: Where are we now?
Downward- flow fashion theory is also known as the trickle-down theory of fashion adoption "which maintains that to be identified as a true fashion, a style must first be adopted by people at the top of the social pyramid. The style then gradually wins acceptance at progressively lower social levels" (Flash cards database, 2009). Advocates of this theory would note that haute couture is first displayed at fashion shows, often many months in advance. Then, affordable retail chains seize upon these trends and market them to consumers. Zara, H&M, Forever 21 and Top Shop are all examples of popular, inexpensive clothing retailers that have capitalized upon high end fashion trends and sold them at a bargain to fashion-conscious younger consumers. "We've become more obsessed with the way that celebrities dress because it's just become so much more accessible. Stores are much better at cottoning onto the things that celebrities wear and reproducing them very quickly," said an editor at the British fashion magazine Heat (Store wars: Fast fashion, BBC News, 2003).
In contrast, horizontal theories of fashion dissemination suggest that "fashions move horizontally between groups on similar social levels rather than vertically from one level to another…the mass-market theory." (Flash cards database, 2009). This theory could be supported by the disparate impact of the recent recession upon consumers. While many high-end customers have returned to their old spending habits, middle and lower-market consumers are still wary of spending their disposable income, because of the fragility of the economic recovery. Said one designer: "target customers -- the wealthiest 1% to 2% of consumers world-wide -- are still spending, even if they are buying fewer things…the 'elite of the elite'" bought 30 of his $43,000 suits even during the height of the recession (Smith 2009). Amongst other economic brackets, consumer spending has decreased on clothing purchases, and individuals are buying less expensive and trendy items.
The upward-flow theory of fashion adoption "holds that the young -- particularly those of low-income families as well as those of higher income who adopt low-income lifestyles -- are quicker than any other social group to create or adopt new and different fashions," such as the fashion of brightly colored 'hip hop' clothing in the 1990s and the trend to wear 'mod'-style clothing in the 1960s, which originated amongst the British working class but gradually came to dominate the pages of Vogue (Flash cards database, 2009).
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