Jamie Oliver and British cuisine's influence on London restaurants

¶ … London restaurant might change over the next ten years?

Background of recent changes

To appreciate the amount of change that can occur within the London restaurant industry over the next ten years and into the future, one must take a brief breath and pause to consider how far the industry has come in the past ten years. Ten years ago today, would anyone have thought that London restaurants would be exporting chefs to America to star in their own series on the American Food Network? Jamie Oliver's success alone as a brand name is testimony to how much the food industry has changed, shifted, and grown. Moreover, the Naked Chef's success as a television empire and reality TV show guru points to the increasing sexiness of food, specifically British food in the eyes of the world as well as the average British patron of the hospitality industry within London itself. British chefs and food experts are becoming known for their food exports, from everything to Nigella Lawson to the menu in Manhattan of 'A Salt and Battery,' an exported English chip shop. As British food industry trademarks are exported abroad, theoretically more people should come to London to sample, rather than joke about the food.

How much have things really changed?

Yet one could argue that British food critics are still better known for their wit rather than incisive commentary about the cuisine they partake. British food in London has become more expansive in its definition, spanning the international landscape of the old empire from curry to peanut noodles to fusion cuisine. Yet the actual standbys defined as British remain fairly stalwart in their nature -- the much-maligned beef, beer, potatoes, and vegetables remain 'British' while the other, new ethnic incorporations to the menu remain that, incorporations the general cuisine, rather than something with truly British connotations.

British food has yet to evolve as an entity. Although ethnic eating may have had its faddish day, the actual institution of British food has from an industry perspective seen little development. Even Nigella Lawson's food show was more famous for the hostess' popularizing of the term 'food porn' as she sucked batter from her fingers, rather than changing notions of British quality food and bringing more foodies to London. Even The Naked Chef felt the need to infuse his most recent British television show with do-good spirit that had nothing to do with food, and everything to do with extending charity and hope to those on the dole by making the homeless his new chefs. A notable achievement morally -- but still leaving the actual British food establishments at a crossroads.

Thus the answer is two fold

British food as a cuisine must grow more expansive, but still retain its definition as British. The British restaurant and industry must retain its status as a national institution, but continue to grow in its cultural as well as its stylistic and entertainment components.

Paradox

By becoming less traditionally British, British restaurants can grow more expansively and ultimately retain a British identity, rather than simply becoming curry houses or Thai restaurants that happen to be located within the confines of London.