How Sushi Went Global: Economics and Cultural Shift

Introduction: Sushi's Cultural Misunderstanding

Sushi is a widely popular food and cultural phenomenon in America today. However, it remains a largely misunderstood and misrepresented culinary tradition and historical subject. The average person does not know how sushi transitioned from an obscure tradition mentioned briefly in accounts of Japanese culture to a worldly dining event. In Theodore C. Bestor's article "How Sushi Went Global," the introduction of sushi into Western culture is examined, along with the broader economical and foreign relations issues that naturally accompany any significant market shift.

The Economics of Global Fishing

American patrons of the now-popular Japanese-style sushi establishments throughout the Western hemisphere may assume that their favorite high-priced restaurant is importing fish directly from Japan to ensure authenticity. However, Japan has actually turned to other fishing markets to supply fish, such as the bluefin tuna used in many sushi dishes. Once Japan boasted a thriving fishing industry that dominated the world market; however, strict regulations on fishing operations changed that landscape significantly. Combined with other factors, Japanese fishermen had to restrict the distance from shore that their fleets could travel, which substantially reduced the amount of fish they could provide domestically and for export. Consequently, Japan had to turn to global fishing supplies rather than serving as a primary provider to other countries.

Sushi's Slow Entry into American Culture

Sushi entered the American cultural vocabulary slowly over the course of many decades. Brief mentions of it in magazines as early as the 1920s can be found, though the representation of this food was often misleading or inaccurate. These wraps made of rice, seaweed, and fish—cooked or raw—were perceived as exotic and frightening to the general Western population. However, Eastern influence on Western culture has historically been strong. Although frequently "Americanized" in presentation and adaptation, fashion, entertainment, philosophy, and cuisine all readily incorporate Japanese styles and aesthetics. By the 1970s, sushi had become a proper fad in America, especially among the culturally elite, and by the 1990s, sushi was officially mainstream cool. The increased cultural value placed on food aesthetics and presentation, combined with the appeal of healthy red-meat alternatives, fueled sushi's growth as a dining trend.

The Complex Economics of the Sushi Market

From a consumer's perspective, sushi represents one of the most simplistic—and elegantly so—of dining choices. However, from an economic standpoint, the sushi trade is remarkably complex. Basing market values on the migratory patterns and life cycles of fish is not a fail-proof economic strategy. Environmental variations, ongoing disputes between environmentalists, politicians, policymakers, local fishermen, and large fishing conglomerates (in varying combinations and often shifting allegiances) ultimately determine the cost of sushi rolls on the consumer's plate. A single fishing net's worth of tuna may be valued at millions of dollars, and if something were to happen to that population of fish preventing it from reaching maximum profitability, the entire global fish market can be affected drastically. One example cited in Bestor's research involves an instance where 800 fish suffocated overnight in a Spanish fishing net, demonstrating how a single incident can have far-reaching economic consequences.

Conclusion: The Personal Side of Sushi

Let the fish swim free in the ocean and indulge yourself in the pleasures of a cucumber roll platter—or better yet, the original "Monkey Roll" creation of the Tokyo Rose restaurant in Charlottesville, Virginia: avocado, kiwi, banana, mango, rice, seaweed wrap, and sesame seeds. Drink some hot green tea, get a head rush from a mouth full of wasabi, and forget about the economy for a few brief moments. That's what sushi's all about.