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Mbt Shoes if the Shoe

Last reviewed: December 27, 2010 ~5 min read

¶ … MBT shoes

If the shoe fits: Is Masai Barefoot Technology (MBT) a naked example of cultural exploitation?

Time-pressed Westerners are always looking for a way to save time and increase their physical fitness. Thus the 'rocker sole' shoe was born. This new footwear style is the brainchild of Karl Muller, the founder of the company Swiss Masai. The Masai design, later copied by other sports footwear companies, is supposed to improve balance and posture, and burn more calories with the wearer's every step. The shoes mimic walking barefoot on the ground, much like people stroll upon the dirt in more natural environments. Walking on the unstable surface of the sole makes use of more complex muscle groups on the part of the wearer than walking in ordinary shoes. It is an efficient workout but requires no additional time, as it can be done as the wearer goes about his or her daily tasks.

However, Muller derived his inspiration for the heel-to-toe rocker targeted at the exercise equipment market by observing the shoes worn by the Masai, a tribe in Africa. This raises an important ethical question: what are the Masai 'owed' for developing -- or inspiring -- the manufactured shoe? The Swiss company takes its name from the Masai, and even named its new technology after the tribe, yet it financially reaps the benefits from this design. Many consider this cultural exploitation, not homage.

There are two, oppositional ways to view the issue. On one hand, all works of art and commerce have some original, unattributed inspiration. After all, the greatest works of art were inspired by many people, places, and things -- but a painting of a tribe does not necessarily mean that the artist owes the tribe 'royalties' as it is the artist who creates and transmits the image to the world. A fashion designer might be inspired by Indian saris to create her new collection, but that does not mean that she owes the nation a percentage in royalties of her sales. The Swiss company took the initial business risk, not the Masai tribe, and thus they are legitimately entitled to the profits -- so the company says. Also, the shoe is not a perfect copy of the original design, given that it makes use of synthetic materials and other aspects of modern technology not available to the Masai people.

On the other hand, if the shoe is seen as a design, developed over centuries of trial and error, it could be argued that the tribe is being unfairly taken advantage of, simply because they are not part of the Western world. Swiss Masai developed the shoe, not through research and development at the company, but by being directly inspired by the tribe. Even Janice Dwumfour, Marketing Communications Manager of Swiss Masai admitted that all of the shoe company's style names are taken from Swahili language, in a direct attempt to capitalize upon the cache given by an association with Africa. This suggests that the company uses exoticism and a romanticism of Africa as a marketing strategy, even while not fully recompensing the tribe for their inspiration for the product. The name of the shoe implies a connection, even though none exists. This seems blatantly unfair to the Masai as creators.

Dwumfour says that the Swiss company does support charities that contribute to the tribe's well-being, but giving charity to an impoverished tribe is not the same thing as treating the tribe members like full business partners, with a continuing relationship with the company. Charity can always be withdrawn, versus having a direct interest in the business, with mandatory royalties. The Masai cannot bring suit against the company for copyright infringement, thus they are fair game to be exploited by marketers from Europe.

However, interviews with Masai tribesmen suggest that tribe members are not particularly upset by this relationship. Some said they were flattered by the recognition given to the people. "I'm glad that the manufacturers are acknowledging the Masai as the basis for the technology. I don't really feel exploited but I think the manufacturer's part of their Corporate Social Responsibility should find a way to involve Masai communities somehow - though I do know that this is easier said than done," said one Masai in an interview. It is possible that tribe members are rationalize that they could not actually manufacture the shoes themselves. Receiving recognition and support from the company, and increasing awareness about the tribe is the best they can hope from the popularity of the shoe that bears their name. Charity is often difficult to solicit for African tribes, and people who wear the shoes and feel a sense of personal connection and responsibility for the shoe may be more apt to contribute to charity efforts.

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PaperDue. (2010). Mbt Shoes if the Shoe. PaperDue. https://www.paperdue.com/essay/mbt-shoes-if-the-shoe-11563

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