Zulu Beadwork and Custom

Zulu Beadwork and Clothing The Zulu nation is the best-known sub-group of the Nguni tribe, which is one of the largest tribal groupings in South Africa. The Zulus have a rich culture with the traditional handicrafts and the intricate designs of their beadwork being especially noteworthy. This paper gives a brief history of the Zulu beadwork and clothing. It also describes how the beads are made and who makes them, what they are used for and the significance and symbolic meaning of the beadwork and clothing in Zulu culture.

History of Zulu Beadwork Wearing of beads among the Zulus is an ancient tradition. The oldest known Zulu beads were made from bones, shells of ostrich eggs, stones, seeds, and metal. Present day high quality Zulu beads are almost exclusively made of glass, although cheap beads for every day use are now also made from plastics.

Glass itself has an ancient history and is believed to have been discovered in Egypt during the rule of the Pharaohs about 3000 years ago and the Egyptians are known to have engaged in trading of glass items for ivory, gold, and slaves with the African nations of the south. ("The Story of Zulu Beads"). The ancient seafaring nations of the Phoenicians used to trade in glass beads along the North African coast.

The Arabs, who later conquered most of North Africa in the 7th and 8th centuries are considered to be the successors of the Phoenicians in the manufacturing and trade of glass beads. The Portuguese succeeded the Arab traders in the 15th and 16th centuries, and the Dutch and the British colonized Africa in the 17th and 18th centuries. The Zulu tradition of fine glass beadwork thus draws on the heritage of different cultures giving it a unique and rich flavor.

("A brief historical review..") Significance Glass beads became a valued possession in Southern Africa and among the Zulu people initially because they were the products of an exotic technology. In due course, the beads gained prominence becoming part of the culture and customs of the people. They were worn for personal adornment as well as to signify social status, and political importance. (Ibid.) Made by the Women Zulu beadwork is exclusively designed and made by the women but is worn by both sexes.

Beads are, therefore, also a means of communication between the males and females in Zulu culture. For example, men wear beadwork to signify their involvement with women they may marry; hence mothers and sisters do not make beads for their sons and brothers. Codes of Shape Each color and shape of the beads has a different meaning.

Messages are often woven into the Zulu beadwork by weaving color codes in decorative, geometrical designs and shapes and it is even possible for a Zulu woman to "write" a "love letter" (incwadi) made entirely from beads to a sweetheart. ("The Story of Zulu Beads"). The basic geometric figure of the beadwork is the triangle (its 3 corners represent the father, mother, and child) and a maximum of seven colors are used in the patterns.

An inverted triangle signifies an unmarried (or unfulfilled) man; the triangle pointed upwards signifies an unmarried (or unfulfilled) woman; two triangles joined at the base in a diamond pattern signifies a married (or complete) woman, and triangles with their apexes meeting (in an hour-glass shape) symbolize a married (or complete) man. (Ibid.) Color Codes The colors have a wide range of meaning, depending on the context in which they are used. Generally, black color symbolizes sadness, loneliness or disappointment, but may also symbolize marriage or reassurance in other situations.

Blue symbolizes the sky, or the sea, faithfulness or even hostility -- depending on its shade. Red may suggest physical love or strong emotion but sometimes represents blood, heartache, anger or impatience. The color green may denote grass or cattle, or love-sickness and jealousy (yes, the Zulus also turn 'green' with envy!) Pink may suggest poverty or even high-birth or promise. Yellow is usually the symbol of wealth or fertility, while white is the symbol of purity, spiritual love and good luck without any negative connotations.

("The Story of Zulu Beads"). Zulu Clothes Beadwork is an essential part of the traditional Zulu dress for women. For example, Zulu clothing for Zulu girls is mainly made of beadwork and is usually quite revealing (most unmarried girls go topless with only necklaces and skirts made of beads). Older Zulu women wear clothes that cover their bodies. They, however, decorate their isicholo (a wide hat made of straw) with beads (ubuhlalu). Women also wear isidwaba, a pleated skirt made of cowhide and softened by hand.

Younger women sometimes decorate their 'isidwaba' with beads, whereas older women wear it plain. ("Culture of Zulu People.") Men's traditional clothing consists mainly of cowhide that is used to cover the.