Farm-to-Table Dining: L'Etoile Restaurant Madison Review

Introduction

This paper examines the farm-to-table concept in two complementary ways: through the lens of a specific restaurant property and in broader, general terms. The property under discussion is L'Etoile Restaurant in Madison, Wisconsin. The general discussion covers the advantages and disadvantages of the farm-to-table concept, the principles employed at L'Etoile, and a consideration of how the property might take the concept even further. While some people suggest that farm-to-table is an overblown and unnecessary concept, there is considerable merit to the idea and the reasons it is practiced.

L'Etoile Restaurant and the Farm-to-Table Model

The restaurant at the center of this report is L'Etoile, located in Madison, Wisconsin. Other associated properties and brands — both current and planned — include Graze, Sujeo, and Estrellon. The L'Etoile website proudly identifies the restaurant as a "REAP" establishment, meaning it buys fresh and buys local as a matter of standard business practice. REAP is a Madison-based organization focused on connecting producers, consumers, businesses, and organizations to the healthful, sustainable, and robust food system of southern Wisconsin. REAP asserts that its "staff, members, volunteers and partners envision sustainable, local food on every plate." Related programs and events promoted through REAP include Farm to School, Buy Fresh Buy Local, Farm Fresh Atlas, Family Food Fest, Burgers & Brew, Pie Palooza, Harvest Gal, and Local Harvest (REAP).

L'Etoile's "About" page reveals that the restaurant has "served local and seasonal offerings since it first opened its doors in 1976." Former owner Odessa Piper prided herself in cultivating strong farm-to-restaurant relationships. She supported Madison-area farms and artisan producers and helped grow what is now the largest producer-only farmers' market in the United States. L'Etoile is frequently described as a "shining star" for the Midwest, recognized for its consistency in quality and service. The affiliated Graze gastropub operates on much the same principles as L'Etoile. Both properties speak to their philosophy and commitment to the community on their respective webpages. One element that does not appear to be explicitly mentioned — and perhaps should be — is a stated commitment to avoiding non-organic and GMO-laden goods (L'Etoile).

Advantages of Farm-to-Table Dining

There are genuine upsides and downsides to the farm-to-table approach. On the positive side, eating locally means eating more healthfully. Readily available mass-market food — such as what one might find at a fast-food chain — is often a poor nutritional choice. By contrast, locally sourced food tends to be organic in nature. Foods mass-produced by large agricultural operations are often "riddled with pesticides, growth hormones and other trace toxic substances," which can interfere with the nutritional value a person actually receives. The local food movement addresses these concerns directly by prioritizing fresh, minimally processed ingredients (Eat Good Food).

Another significant advantage of the farm-to-table model is its economic impact on the local community. Rather than spending dollars that flow out of the region to national or global corporations, consumers who buy local keep money circulating within their own communities. Local farmers and small business owners benefit directly, rather than the profits being absorbed by distant corporate interests. Eating locally grown food is also typically more cost-effective than purchasing food that has traveled long distances through complex supply chains (Eat Good Food).

Conclusion

L'Etoile has been in operation for roughly two generations and appears to fulfill its mission admirably. The restaurant is clearly linked — both in business terms and in philosophy — to REAP and to the broader network of farm-to-table outlets in the greater Madison area. While some of the claims made about nationally produced food can veer toward alarmism, there is no question that locally grown food and products are better for one's health and for the local economy than the goods of large corporations focused primarily on yield and profit.

Works Cited

Atkins, Clyde. "Why Eat Local? Pros and Cons of Going Farm to Table." Eat Good Food. N.p., 2014. Web. 13 Aug. 2015.

L'Etoile. "Restaurants in Madison." Restaurants in Madison. N.p., 2015. Web. 13 Aug. 2015.

REAP. "Home — REAP Food Group." Reapfoodgroup.org. N.p., 2015. Web. 13 Aug. 2015.