Smithfield boasts that "with the development of high-tech hog breeding techniques, there is now a new generation of pork that combines yesterday's goodness with today's leaner taste" and that its brining methods makes it easier to serve a prepared ham more quickly to a family on a busy weekday night as no cooking is required (About us, Smithfield Hams, 2010). However, heritage pork enthusiasts counter: "the only problem is that while being low fat, it [commercially raised pork] is also low in taste, just like that pasty white, mushy chicken breast. In many cases the pork has no taste at all. You try to fry up a chop and you end up having to add lots of fats or oils to brown it, and if you aren't careful you end up with a tough, dry, and flavorless hunk of inedible pseudo-pig on your plate" (Forester 2007). In contrast, heritage pork, the flesh of so-called traditional or heritage breed pigs who do not often flourish under the conditions of factory farming, is fattier than standard-grade pork. Heritage pork is humanely raised, usually organically, without antibiotics or hormones. Heritage pork breeds must be brined by the customer, or smoked for flavor, unlike Smithfield hams and other commercial products, which can be served immediately (Forester 2007). Although Smithfield continues to rest its laurels on the value of the historical Smithfield name, it has explored partnerships that emphasize the convenient and ubiquitous brand name of its product, including its alliance with the popular TV chef and spokeswoman, Paula Deen, known for her heavy, buttery cuisine. Smithfield has also begun to market traditional, hearty side dishes like butter that are sold with its hams -- such as biscuits and casseroles -- to satisfy the demand for 'complete' dinners amongst customers today who are pressed for time. Today, the pork market could be said to be divided into two camps. The first is the average, time-pressed and value-conscious consumer watching his or her weight but still desirous of hearty American fare -- that consumer is likely to buy leaner Smithfield products. Those who want hams that are more like the ones 'traditionally'...

Concerns raised about the Smithfield brand have not simply been associated with the treatment of the animals, but also its workers. Smithfield's meat-processing plants are often described as dangerous and injuries of workers have been frequent. Many workers have left Smithfield to take lower-paying jobs, simply because of the conditions. The workload is brutal: Smithfield factories can process over 30,000 hogs a day. "Dennis Pittman, a Smithfield spokesman, said 60% of the new workers quit within 90 days of being hired, compared with 25% to 30% two years ago when many new employees were illegal immigrants. 'I've heard officials from a couple of other meat processors say they've never seen such high turnover with new workers,' Mr. Pittman said (Greenhouse 2007).
Despite all of the controversy, Smithfield sales remain strong. Recruiting workers has proved challenging, but the company's name, the Smithfield reputation and tradition, and the demand for leaner and easy-to-serve pork have bolstered company sales. Whether the company can continue to remain competitive in the future remains an open question, given current trends in the industry.

Works Cited

About us. Smithfield Hams. October 15, 2010.

http://www.smithfieldhams.com/aboutus

Forester, Jonathan. Heritage pork: The other white meat. Slashfood. February 14, 2007.

http://www.slashfood.com/2007/02/14/heritage-pork-the-other-red-meat/

Greenhouse, Stephen. Crackdown upends Smithfield. The New York Times. October 12, 2007.

Pollan, Michael. Food Rules. Penguin, 2009.

Pollan, Michael. The Omnivore's Dilemma. New York: Penguin, 2007.

Ruegsegger, Bob. Ham: The meat that made Smithfield famous. The Virginia

Gazette. May 16, 2010. October 15, 2010 at http://www.vagazette.com/articles/2010/05/16/news/doc4bed4cd5072b9905455419.txt