Men's Sportswear Fashion in the 1950s and 1990s

Fashion as Cultural Expression

As a form of cultural expression, fashion always reflects the deepest concerns of society. But unlike literature, music, or art, fashion communicates indirectly — employing a language and logic of its own. Fashion's power to capture the present and even to predict the future is only revealed with the passage of time (Font 2003).

In the 1950s, ready-to-wear clothing was a major development, and styles began changing very quickly. It was not socially acceptable for women to work; a woman's "place was in the home" (Bosak 2003). Women wore pants around the house but still wore skirts when they went out. Tight-fitting dresses and shorter hemlines were popular, as were the circle skirt, bobby sox, and the sweater set.

Men's Fashion in the 1950s

Before 1950, men wore both single-breasted and double-breasted suits, and fashions changed very little for them. In the 1950s, many men switched to single-breasted suits with narrow lapels and natural — that is, unpadded — shoulders (Bosak 2003). They also began wearing colored shirts with business suits. Teenagers began wearing different clothes than their parents (the term teenager was first used in 1953), and everyone started wearing blue jeans. Marlon Brando, in the 1954 film The Wild One, gave birth to the black leather jacket as a fashion statement (Bosak 2003).

The relaxed attitude toward dressing that emerged by the 1990s was evident in trends such as see-through blouses for women. Business casual became widely accepted, and fashion merged with corporate logos. Designer names were everywhere. Many argued that the North American obsession with fashion, youth, and beauty had gone too far. Images of beauty were constantly thrust before the public through billboards, television, films, and magazines — most of them computer-enhanced (Bosak 2003). A wide range of fashions was available, yet strangely, everything looked much the same.

Sportswear and Casual Style in the 1990s

It was not long ago that a professional man's uniform — a conservative suit and tie — was bland, predictable, and practical. In 1950s sitcoms such as Leave It to Beaver and Father Knows Best, dear old Dad wore that suit to work and didn't so much as loosen his tie when he came home for dinner (Keller 2000). Even during the disco-era, polyester-clad 1970s, there was the memorable photograph of Richard Nixon strolling the beach at the "Western White House" in San Clemente, California — in suit and tie (Keller 2000). How times have changed.

Joe Serino of J.Crew observed that the tradition of purchasing a complete suit now has alternatives: "Suit separates give the customer options on buying the jacket, pant, or both. Mixing separate pieces puts men in the arena where women have been for years" (qtd. in Keller 2000).

Part of the casual style in the 1990s appeared to be to look casual — if not sloppy (Historical Boys' Clothing 2003). Popular sportswear for males in the 1990s was plastered with manufacturers' names, including Tommy Hilfiger, Nautica, the Gap, and others. The trend had begun in the 1980s and continued unabated through the 1990s. The meaning behind boys' and girls' desire to serve as living billboards was difficult to assess (Historical Boys' Clothing 2003). It was almost as if the proliferation of shifting public signage, slogans, logos, and the deluge of print advertising meant that the words on your clothes now certified your physical existence (Historical Boys' Clothing 2003) — or at least demonstrated that you were in step with popular culture. The media was, and continues to be, so important to society that it appeared critical to proclaim one's knowledge of and acceptance of the latest trends.

Conclusion

With employers scrambling to fill positions in a tight job market, a casual-clothing policy has become an integral part of some companies' pitches to prospective employees (Gottschalk 2003). If the employee can save money on attire, that serves as a recruiting and retention incentive. The comfort factor may also figure into the allure: "By and large, if people feel more comfortable in their workplace," Serino said, "they're apt to perform at a higher level" (qtd. in Keller 2000).

Jack Herschlag, executive director of the National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers, argued: "There's no question suit sales have gone down, but there's a basic attachment to the suit. The concept is a century and a half old, and it's held up well" (qtd. in Gottschalk 2003).

It is hard to believe now, but in the 1950s virtually anyone without a laborer's job wore a suit. Our culture has changed, society has changed, and the rules have certainly changed. Yet strongholds remain — in the business world, among those who travel internationally, in banking, in senior executive positions, and in entertainment — where suits still hold their ground. And there remain the fashion-conscious men who appreciate the artistry of a well-cut suit, for there is, indeed, a great deal of fashion in men's suits and sportswear today.

Works Cited

Bosak, S. "A Quick Tour Through the Last Century of Fashion" (2003). Mother's Day Activity Kit. 04 December 2003.

Font, L. "The Fashion Front" (2003). CNN Interactive.com. 03 December 2003. http://www.cnn2.com/SPECIALS/fashion.essay/

Gottschalk, M. "Can't Men's Suits Survive the Dress-Down Trend?" (2003). Kansas City Star. 04 December 2003. http://www.kcstar.com/item/business.html

Historical Boys' Clothing. "Boys Clothing Styles: 1990s" (2003). 04 December 2003. http://www.histclo.hispeed.com/1990.html

Keller, L. "A Wardrobe That Works" (2000). CNN.com. 03 December 2003.

Trdesignet.com. "Point of Perfection, Technology and Elegance" (2003). 04 December 2003. http://www.trdesignet.com