Case Study Undergraduate 4,805 words

Shu Uemura Makeup Remove Oil

Last reviewed: June 5, 2011 ~25 min read

Shu Uemura Make-Up Remover: A Product Analysis

Shu Uemura was an internationally renowned Japanese makeup artist and the founder of the famous cosmetics line of the same name. Shu Uemura's interest in makeup artistry began as a teenager as he was recovering from a severe illness (Shilling, 2008). He entered the world of film makeup in 1957 working as a makeup artist for the film "Joe butterfly" (Associated Press, 2008). Shu Uemura left Japan and moved to the United States so that he could break into the film and television makeup business. He became one of the most famous makeup artists in Hollywood. It was the year 1960 when Shu Uemura developed and launched his first cosmetics product (Associated Press, 2008).

History of Shu Uemura Cosmetics

The inspiration for Uemura's first product came from working with Hollywood actresses and actors. Often, actors and actresses had to change makeup several times a day. The cleansers that they used at the time were harsh and left their skin rough and damaged. Uemura noticed that it was more difficult to create beauty from damaged skin than from healthy skin. He decided to develop a line of products that would not damage the skin.

Photo Credit: http://www.shuuemura-usa.com/_us/_en/discover-shu-uemura/path-to-beauty.aspx

His first product was a cleansing oil that left the skin cleaner than soap and which also moisturized the skin. This revolutionary new product solved many problems for actors and actresses that had to change their makeup several times a day. Uemura's product works very well and is still one of the most popular selling products in Japan. The philosophy of Uemura's product line placed the health of this can over other aspects of the cosmetic lines. The most important aspect of this philosophy is that he felt one should enhance the beauty of the skin through improving it, rather than creating an appearance of outward beauty through the use of heavy cosmetics that further damaged the skin (Associated Press, 2008).

. This philosophy of placing the health of the skin and enhancing than natural beauty rather than trying to cover up mistakes still remains at the forefront of the company. Uemura later returned to Japan and opened the Shu Uemura Makeup School (Masters, 2008). Uemura taught his techniques and philosophy at his school. During the boom of the Japanese economy Uemura opened his first boutique store in Tokyo. After this time Shu Uemura cosmetics became a force in both the domestic Japanese, and international markets for beauty products.

Shu Uemura cosmetics soon had stores in Paris, New York, a London, Hong Kong, in many other outlets in Japan (Masters, 2008). The company has expanded its product line to include hair Products, lifestyle products, fake eyelashes, perfume, and a specialty line of Photo Credit: http://fashiontribes.typepad.com/main/2006/05/limited_edition.html handmade makeup brushes.

However, the companies is still best known for its famous cleansing oil. Shu Uemura became known for high end products and catered to the lifestyles of the rich and famous. The company's products can be considered a cultural force rather than just another cosmetic on the market. Uemura was a trendsetter in both his philosophy and in the product lines that he developed.

Photo Credit: http://beautyanonymous.blogspot.com/2008_01_01_archive.html

After Uemura's death at the age of 79 in 2007, his company continues to promote the philosophy and education that was the founders' legacy. Shu Uemura Cosmetics has products featured in many high-end makeup and fashion magazines. They continue to develop new lines while still keeping with their founder's philosophy. The following will explore their primary and secondary markets, with a focus on their most famous makeup remover. It will explore the marketing plan for Shu Uemura cosmetics.

Market Analysis and Segmentation

Currently, Shu Uemura cosmetics is a subsidiary at of L'Oreal SA. Their main facility in office is still in Tokyo. Primarily, the company is a Japanese Company and its primary target market is Asian. However, its association with Hollywood also gives it a strong U.S. presence. The company was able to leverage its early establishment and associations with the rich and famous to give it the proceeds that it needed to open up opportunities in the fashion capitals of the world. Uemura first broke into the industry by directly entering into alignment with that business segment. This allowed it to gain solid footing in the upper end market. It was never associated with a lower priced, more common demographic.

Uemura's initial launch his product lines allowed to enter the upper end market and become known as a product of professionals and those in the film trade. Uemura's ability to gain a position as a makeup artist for Hollywood was a key factor that put him in the position to establish a reputation in the industry.

Photo Credit: http://www.tonguechic.com/articles/1744-Shu-Uemura-Tokyo-Lash-Bar-2009

This establishment as an exquisite artist in the film industry was a key factor that allowed him to launch his cosmetic line by first marketing to the same audience.

Professionals

The very first demographic group that Uemura catered to was that of the wealthy, artistic class. This was a key factor in his success at continuing to market to this upper class segment. At that time, as with today, if Hollywood was wearing it or doing it, it soon caught on with the rest of the public. Uemura was able to establish an association with this class of customers from the very beginning using his own reputation to leverage access to this highly desirable target demographic. Once he was into this demographic, the rest simply fell into place. Shu Uemura's market began with an elite group of people that were highly influential on the rest of the country and on the rest of the world. The first product sold and developed by Shu Uemura arose from a need that was identified for a specific group of people. These people were professionals and depended on cosmetics and reliable products.

The first Shu Uemura product was designed to meet the needs of professional makeup designers and actors and actresses in the glamorous world of Hollywood.

Photo Credit: Nathan Bush at http://www.dailymakeover.com/blogs/fashion-week/2009/09/woodstock-waves-at-vivienne-tam.html

This market was small, by comparison with the potential market for the product, but this market was highly influential on the rest of society. Everyone watched Hollywood to see what they were wearing, how they were acting, and what makeup they use. Hollywood set the tone for much of society. Entry into this market of highly influential people was an excellent strategic move by Shu Uemura to set the standard for his product as high priced and as a product that carried prestige.

Shu Uemura's market entry with a single product that was high quality and that solved the problem for this elite group of people set high standards and high expectations for the rest of the products that the company would develop, and for the products that they still do. Their products are designed for professionals, but many others use them as well. Shu Uemura cleansing oils and other products are still used by professionals and by actors and actresses in their professional line of work. This group represents a small, but important part of the market segmentation to which Shu Uemura caters.

Shu Uemura provides professional discounts for those in the industry who use and promote their products. This promotional strategy has two important effects. First, being used by professionals sets the standard in other market segments that the product is high quality. If professionals use it, then it is considered superior to other products that are found on the consumer market.

Photo Credit: http://www.tonguechic.com/articles/1744-Shu-Uemura-Tokyo-Lash-Bar-2009

This allows them to extract a higher price on the consumer market because they are selling consumers a professional grade product. Its continued association with Hollywood and professionals also gives a lot of free advertising and exposure. It allows the company to attend Hollywood events and to be associated with society's elite. Their association with this group transfers to their products as well.

One of the most interesting questions about this marketing strategy in its development is whether it was by accident, or whether it was Shu Uemura's intention all along. His desire to get a job with Hollywood was the first step to his lifelong association with Hollywood's rich and famous. This association would act as a springboard for the development and spread of as products in a global market. His first and most important market segment was the Hollywood elite and those who made associated with.

The U.S. Market

The establishment of the U.S. market for Shu Uemura arose from a natural association with Hollywood glamour. Shu Uemura established itself as a brand that was associated with fame and fortune. It began on the glamour circuit and it remains the brand that is high in the fashion industry. The fashion industry plays an important role in establishing U.S. brands and brand identity. Any brand that is identified with Hollywood or the fashion industry will naturally filter down into the ranks of the average consumer. Shu Uemura's pricing scheme allows it to remain in category of a luxury item. Some of its bottles of cleansing oil are as much as $78.00 per bottle. Other cleansing oil bottles are priced at $28.00 per bottle.

Photo Credit: Nathan Bush at http://www.dailymakeover.com/blogs/fashion-week/2009/09/woodstock-waves-at-vivienne-tam.html

Obviously, the higher the price bottle the more likely it is to appeal to those who could afford it. It is a status symbol as well as an excellent product that is known for professional quality. Shu Uemura's market in the United States' first penetrated in the upper class and those who were associated with the fashion industry. However, the company was able to penetrate other levels of the U.S. consumer market the development of brands that were marketed at lower prices. Everyone can afford a Shu Uemura product and every consumer who wants to be associated with the upper class can brag that they own a Shu Uemura product. This is the key to how they penetrated all levels of the U.S. market. They have something everyone can afford and those who can afford the higher priced items have plenty of product choices.

The Shu Uemura brand established itself in the United States through a natural progression of products flowing from Hollywood to the fashion industry, and then filtering down to the rest of the consumer market. Many products find their way from the runway to the store in this manner. However, Shu Uemura decided to take a different realm to the consumer market. They first marketed their products through their website and through established brick and mortar stores that feature their products were through high-end stores in order to maintain their product positioning among the upper class. This way they remain highly desirable by all classes but they still remain a status symbol that represents wealth and success.

Shu Uemura is associated with special days and special events in one's life.

Photo Credit: http://www.tonguechic.com/articles/1744-Shu-Uemura-Tokyo-Lash-Bar-2009

They are not everyday makeup and reflect care and convey a feeling the event is something special. They are not and everyday office brand unless one happens to be a runway model or actress. They are associated with high glamour and drama. They are associated with the red carpet and with Haute Coiture styles. Shu Uemura aligns itself for the fashion moguls and the movers and shakers and the industry.

Photo Credit: http://www.tonguechic.com/articles/1744-Shu-Uemura-Tokyo-Lash-Bar-2009

Drama is the hallmark that Shu Uemura uses to remain at the top of the U.S. fashion industry. In the U.S., their brand is not associated with the everyday world of the average person. It is associated with high living and a glamorous life that reflects freedom to express oneself in an artistic way that is out of the ordinary.

Shu Uemura is a Japanese brand and chooses to remain associated with traditional Japanese culture. In this way the company has used a dual approach to tap the average consumer in the U.S. And a special niche market of Asians living in the U.S. They are a source of cultural pride for those of Asian descent living in the U.S. The association with the rich and famous also helps to attract this audience as well. Americans realize that Shu Uemura is a Japanese brand. However, there association with Hollywood makes them acceptable and sought after in the United States, regardless of their home address, at least that was the apparent idea conveyed in the marketing material.

Shu Uemura offers several different collections that pull together elements that appeal to the international markets and the traditional Asian market. Few companies have been able to successfully market to both the Asian market and the U.S. And European markets at the same time. The Sakura Collection offers a very natural looking line that highlights the natural glow and beauty of the face. This collection is designed to make the woman look not overdone. This appeals to the Asian market that does not necessarily prefer the glamorous look of the runway model. It gives a fresh look and a young look that is vital and fresh.

Photo Credit: http://www.shuuemura-usa.com/_us/_en/collections/index.aspx

This photo demonstrates the beauty and purity that is portrayed in the Sakura collection. It is as fresh as cherry blossoms in the spring. One of the key points that stands out in an examination of Shu Uemura's marketing is that when they are marketing to a distinctively Asian market, they use distinctively Asian imagery. The meaning of the Asian imagery may be lost on the American market, who might miss the special meaning behind the cherry blossoms in this photo. However, to the Asian market this imagery and the colors chosen have a special meaning. The use of intense reds in the photo also carries a special meaning of good luck and fortune. This is another way that Shu Uemura's advertising portrays the meaning that it is associated with wealth and good health in the Asian market. This is important for its positioning within that market.

Marketing in the U.S. To those who are not of Asian descent hinges on imagery of Hollywood, high fashion, and glamour. American advertising is dramatic and highly artistic in nature. When one compares the two advertising campaigns side-by-side, they appear to be almost opposites. The Asian Marketing is very natural, subdued, and beautiful. The American advertising by contrast is dramatic almost to the point of being fantasy. One example of this is their Morphorium collection which is apparently being marketed to the U.S. And European market, as one can tell by the facial features of the model chosen.

Photo Credit: http://www.shuuemura-usa.com/_us/_en/collections/mode-makeup/morphorium-spring-mode/index.aspx

Shu Uemura's marketing of its Sakura collection and it's Morphorium collection is an example of culturally sensitive marketing techniques. It is easy to determine which market each collection is targeted towards by looking at the facial features and race of the model as well as the contextual clues found in the background of the photos. The model and imagery used in the photo of the Sakura Collection is decidedly Asian. However, it is difficult to tell whether the model was specifically Japanese or of a different Asian descent. The use of the cherry blossoms suggests that the target market for the product is Japanese, but other cultures also recognize the cherry blossom as a sign of spring and freshness. Sakura is a word that specifically refers to a Japanese cherry tree. Therefore, the advertising would be appealing to other Asian cultures, but it was specifically intended for the Japanese market. Shu Uemura was proud of his Japanese culture and remained loyal to it throughout its life. It is not surprising that the Asian collection shows more Japanese influence than any other Asian culture.

The facial features of the model for the Morphorium Collection and the background scenery chosen are more culturally ambiguous. The title of the collection signifies change and transformation. The model is not decidedly European or decidedly American. The model in the picture has features that would appeal to both audiences. The collection is offered in a palette of cool colors and a palette of warm colors. Both of the pallets would appeal to a wide variety of cultures in both Europe and America. This same can be said for many of the models used in the non-Asian Lines.

Photo Credit: http://www.shuuemura-usa.com/_us/_en/makeup/index.asp

The American Marketing campaign is unique because it is culturally sensitive, and it is culturally separate. The American Marketing tries to capture Asian-Americans, the remainder of the American consumer market, and others of European descent. The most interesting aspect of the marketing campaign is that they manage to be both general in their context, yet specific at the same time. They tried to focus on a narrow target market, yet did it in a way that did not exclude the rest of the market.

This strategy demonstrates that they knew both of their target markets intimately and demonstrated their ability to launch a campaign that targeted them. However, they did so in a way that did not limit themselves to the target market, but that allowed them to expand to the general market of Asians and Americans alike. Asian tastes and aesthetics are different from American tastes and aesthetics. Shu Uemura realized that they had two different markets and then they would take two different marketing campaigns. They blended these two campaigns so that they would appeal to each target market, yet not be offensive or insensitive to the other market. This was an excellent example of using cultural sensitivity to its greatest advantage.

Photo Credit: http://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/beauty/its-37-lashes-for-shu-uemura-20090403-9m86.html

The three models in this picture are an excellent example of choice in models that have neither an American, nor European look. Their hair styling is always culturally ambiguous as well. It is difficult to determine from the clues given which market the models or intended to please. The only thing that is for certain is that the models are meant to appeal to those who wish for a glamorous life style and have the opportunity to engage in self-indulgence on occasion.

The Japanese Market

The information contained in the previous section was derived from the American web site. When Shu Uemura decided to open a corporate headquarters, he chose not to do it in the country where he gained his fame and fortune. Instead he would back to his roots and built his corporation in Japan. This demonstrates an incredible sense of loyalty to his home country. The Japanese website, interestingly enough does not have Asian featured models on the front page. Instead, the models used have a distinctively American or European look.

Photo Credit: http://www.shuuemura.jp/?s=news/2011_06/0601_color_atelier&wide=1

On the FAQ page, when translated, it states that product sold to the Japanese market are a different from those sold abroad. It further goes on to explain that this is because the skin needs of the Japanese are different from those of other cultures. (Shu Uemura, Japanese Sit, 2011). This not only demonstrates cultural sensitivity in the marketing campaigns but sensitivity in the differences in skin between the two cultures as well. It clearly states that Japanese Products are meant to be sensitive to the needs of Japanese skin and Japanese cultural customs. On the same FAQ page, it is explained that Westerners have a pinkish tone to their skin, which makes them look white and unhealthy to the Japanese. Then in states that the Japanese have a yellowish skin tone that is highlighted by whitening products. This explanation explains why a different line of products is marketed in Japan as opposed to those marketed in the United States.

One of the key differences between the Japanese website and the American website is that the pictures on the Japanese website are more product oriented, and pictures on the American website have many more pictures of people in them. The explanation of the differences found on the FAQ page make it even more of a mystery why the main models featured on the page have American rather than Asian features. One has to go several layers down into the website before they find an Asian model.

Photo Credit: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.shuuemura.jp/&ei=1xfsTcfLL4Xe0QGIzuiaAQ&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CC0Q7gEwAA&Prev=/search%3Fq%3Dshu%2Buemura%2Bjapan%2Bwebsite%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1T4ADBS_enUS294US302%26prmd%3Divnso

The American website actually had more Asian models than the Japanese website. This would seem like an oversight from the marketing department. The American models featured on the Japanese website did not have the same dramatic look to their makeup as they did on the American website. Rather, their makeup was done in a more natural style that would be more appealing to the Japanese. This is a mysterious treatment of the models on the Japanese website.

Changing Strategies

In 2010 L'Oreal bought 20% of Shu Uemura anddecided to close all of its United States retail shops and focus on its bigger luxury brands (Schweitzer, 2010). This move came after complex analysis of L'Oreal's portfolio. They decided to focus on growing brands that have a larger presence in the United States. Before the decision, Shu Uemura products could be purchased in 18 countries. It was found that it did 80% of its business in Asia (Schweitzer, 2010). As result of this decision the company not only closed all of its freestanding stores, but also pulled all of its products off of the shelves in major retail stores, including Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New York, and Sephora (Schweitzer, 2010). The Brands would continue to be available on their website, for U.S. customers, this would be the only place where they could purchase the products. For professionals that depend on their product, this decision caused quite a difficulty.

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PaperDue. (2011). Shu Uemura Makeup Remove Oil. PaperDue. https://www.paperdue.com/essay/shu-uemura-makeup-remove-oil-118616

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