In-N-Out Burger a Behind the

in-N-Out Burger a Behind the Counter Look at the Fast Food Chain That Breaks all the Rules Perman, Stacey. In-N-Out Burger: A behind-the-counter look at the fast food chain that breaks all the rules. HarperCollins, 2009. Does the fast food burger have a future? Concerns about obesity, sustainability, unfair labor practices, and homogenizing American tastes have been raised by such modern food classics as the documentary Supersize Me and the books The Omnivore's Dilemma and Fast Food Nation.

However, one burger chain, long before claims about grass-fed beef became fashionable, stood proud as an ethical company that served its burgers fresh and made-to-order. That company was In-N-Out, the subject of Stacey Perman's 2009 book In-N-Out Burger A behind-the-counter look at the fast food chain that breaks all the rules. The In-N-Out chain has an almost cult-like devotion amongst its fans.

Given that many of its principles seem commensurate with the current obsessions of 'foodies' with an anti-fast food bias and a dislike of commercialized meat by-products, it might be assumed that the chain is a relatively new one. However, Perlman's book contains many surprises. The first surprise is that the chain dates back to 1948, before fast food burgers became ubiquitous across the modern landscape. "Harry Snyder's dream was a modest one…to start his own little food business -- a hamburger stand" (Perman 1).

The postwar boom was just beginning, and the interstate highway system was winding its way across the West like an octopus in the late 40s. There was a synergy of vision, financing, and changes in American eating and travel habits that facilitated In-N-Out's success. The first In-N-Out was opened in Baldwin Park, seventeen miles east of Los Angeles. Harry and Esther Snyder, the former of whom had just returned from fighting in World War II, began the In-N-Out company with only $5,000.

They were lucky in the location they selected -- between L.A. And Palm Springs -- which was to become a major transportation crossroads. The first In-N-Out burgers cost a quarter; drinks were a dime. From these unprepossessing beginnings came a $450 million dollar enterprise and family-run empire. What is perhaps most extraordinary is the love In-N-Out devotees feel for the chain. The book contrasts the humble beginnings of In-N-Out with a recent opening of a new outlet in Arizona.

Despite the relatively minimal fanfare of the owners, the wild enthusiasm of the patrons generated a carnival-like atmosphere, as fans that once had to drive across state lines to get their 'fix' of an Animal Style Double burger could now do so with relative ease (Perman 2). "Ravenous customers began arriving in the dark of the night, long before the store's 10:30 A.M. opening. Actually, people began lining up at 2:00 A.M. The day before, some sleeping in their cars….

Marveling at the thick, snaking procession of people, Phil Villarreal, a reporter for the Arizona Daily Star, recalled Soviet-era bread lines in Moscow" (Perman 3). Unlike its competitors, In-N-Out has stuck with a relatively simple and limited menu -- burgers, fries, lemonade and milkshakes. It has never used microwaves, freezers, or 'holding' pens for burgers, and there are no Mediterranean wraps or kid's menus (Perman 3). The chain has expanded only cautiously, only so far as it can stay true to its core principles of "Quality, Cleanliness, and Service" (Perman 4).

The refusal to rely upon credit to expand across the nation or to compromise quality for volume and economies of scale has created a core base of extremely reliable and dedicated customers. The chain does not strive to attain McDonald's-level enormity, but remains steady and successful in its approach. The buns are still baked daily, and the cheese on the burgers and the ice cream in the milkshake contains real milk, and is free of by-products and additives.

The lack of interest in attracting new customers led to the 'secret menu,' whereby certain offerings like Animal Style, The Flying Dutchman, and other ways to order burgers were not even listed. This lack of concern for patrons from outside of Los Angeles added to the "mystique" (Perman 5). The chain is regionally based, and many Californians living away from the state say that one of their first meals upon arriving home is an In-N-Out burger.

The road to In-N-Out's peculiar form of success has not always been a smooth path. For example, after the death of Harry Snyder in 1976, there was a war of succession between sons Guy and Rich, the latter of who was supported by his mother in his attempt to take over the company. "It had the emotional intensity of the biblical story of Jacob and Esau without, of course, the bloodlust or deceit" (Perman114). Rich was initially dissatisfied by the fact that McDonald's had thousands of restaurants vs.

The Snyder family's handful. Rich was the younger of the two brothers and Guy resisted some of his innovations. However, eventually Rich consolidated his leadership, but ran the company fairly similar to his father -- with some ideological modifications. It might be assumed that a chain beloved by Fast Food Nation Eric Schlosser and Julia Child was a rabidly liberal company, and devoted to animal rights and Democratic causes. However, once again In-N-Out flies in the face of commonly-held assumptions.

It was Rich who was responsible for taking his family's conservative Christian leanings and making it a core part of the corporate culture. While Esther had always discreetly carried a Bible, Rich openly donated to the Republican Party and dined at the White House with Dan Quayle. He added the slogan: "The Best Enterprise is a Free Enterprise 'God Bless America'" to the In-N-Out stationery letterhead (Perman 160). The Bible verses on the soda cups still remain a critical part of the corporate culture and Rich called his company God's company.

The family ultimately supported Rich's Christian efforts and the only really heated controversy came when Rich, in attempting to challenge McDonald's success, had the temerity to introduce a chicken sandwich on the menu. There had always been a simmering conflict of personality and interpersonal style between the two brothers, but Guy openly put his food down upon hearing of the plan to challenge McDonald's on the McNugget front -- there would be no diluting the In-N-Out focus on burgers (Perman 175).

Guy never challenged his mother's refusal to acknowledge her older son's claim upon the company until his brother died in a plane crash. Rich was dyslexic, but Guy Snyder had even more difficult problems: a heroin addiction, along with a marijuana, Valium, and Klonopin dependency. Miraculously, again due to the freshness of its product and its fanatical focus on quality, and doing what it did well in a consistent fashion, In-N-Out Burger remained stable, despite Guy's mental instability.

Thus In-N-Out in many ways challenges conventional business wisdom -- it did not have a great leader at its helm at all times. It took unpopular political stances without really putting the company's fortunes first and foremost. What did enable it to work was staying true to its mission, offering a consistent and high-quality product, and not alienating its base. It also eschewed over-expansion of its restaurant empire and its product line. After Guy died in 1999 of a heart attack, the company was in legal limbo.

Esther struggled with other relatives for control of the company. After.